OBEY is the phenomenology that spread worldwide with posters of “Andre the Giant” over a decade ago. Shepard Fairey extended his creation with the “utilitarian canvas” - the t-shirt that allows interaction between the graphics and the person.
Mike Ternosky (men's) and Erin Wignall (women's) are the designers for OBEY Clothing who help spread Fairey’s message through “sportswear fashion and one of a kind accessories”; OCStreet has the exclusive interview behind their influences, favorite designers, and what we can look forward to from them this summer.
OCSTREET: When was the first time that you met Shepard Fairey, and how did OBEY Clothing partners Don Juncal and Chris Broders approach you about creating the Obey Clothing line? What is your working relationship with Shepard Fairey?
MIKE: I got involved with OBEY clothing through Don Juncal. I had known Don for many years through the action sports industry and working at a surf/skate shop in New Jersey. So when I graduated college and moved to California in 2000 he and his other partners asked me if I wanted to work with them on OBEY clothing. I had known about Shepard's work since about 1991 and had seen the stickers and stencils all over the northeast. So when they asked me if I wanted to work on the OBEY clothing line I knew that there were a lot of possibilities with it. Shepard and I first met in the summer of 2000 when we started working on the clothing line together. Shep and I work on a lot of the themes he or I want to present in the line as well as t-shirt graphic ideas. We definitely spend a lot of time working on the OBEY T-shirts because we are a graphics based company.
Erin: I first found out about Shepard’s work a few years ago after I saw a huge billboard he had pasted right on the corner of Sunset Blvd. and Western Ave. in LA. It was so massive, and although I had seen the giant face around before, that was when I finally realized that something big was going on. Since then, I have come to know much more about the OBEY campaign and have always had lots of respect for Shepard’s work. I met Don and Chris about a year ago when I heard that they were looking for a new women’s designer. I jumped on the opportunity to apply for the job since OBEY Clothing reflected my own sense of style and was a project that I strongly believe in.
OCSTREET: Fairey describes his influences growing up in a punk rock/hip-hop/skate scene. Did you guys grow up in Orange County, and what were your influences and inspirations to come up with designs? What influences derive from Shepard Fairey’s designs?
MIKE: I'm originally from New Jersey, and grew up doing similar things to Shep. I grew up in a punk rock/hiphop/skate/surf scene. My influences came from music I listened to growing up and the different scenes this music inspired. I also lived in Philly for awhile and have drawn a lot of inspiration from city living, just bombing around the city you really pick up on the energy the city and its people have to offer. Most of my designs are inspired by this energy from these scenes and also classic military clothing and work wear. With the clothing designs a lot of the themes behind the line are derived from art Shep has done. We also talk a lot about ideas or topics we want to cover or add into the line. A lot of the ideas just come from examining pop culture or movement's in pop culture such as early hip hop or punk rock.
Erin: I am actually from the Midwest, not from Orange County a lot of my influences are very similar to Shepard’s... Music (Rock, Hip hop, etc.) but I also draw a lot of inspiration from historical dress and vintage style. The military feel of the line is definitely drawn from Shepard’s propaganda-style artwork, but it is also a huge part of the history of streetwear.
OCSTREET: Do you believe Orange County has its own style? If so, how would you describe Orange County fashion and how does it differ from other areas such as LA or NY?
BOTH: Orange County has so many different scenes and styles. Some are definitely similar to NY or LA, so some of the fashions may look similar to what you'd see in those cities. For example the indie rock scene. But the OC also has scenes that are unique to itself. I think that people in the OC and the fashions that they're rockin' are very lifestyle oriented, people are dressing to represent what scene or activities they're into.
OCSTREET: The “utilitarian canvas is a t-shirt serving a very effective purpose, allowing the graphic to interact with the person rocking it.” Although, Obey Clothing has a variety of apparel and accessories: military caps, jackets, and wallets, why is the t-shirt the “utilitarian canvas?”
BOTH: Because OBEY is a message driven company, driven by Shepard's graphics and ideas, the t-shirt is the perfect vehicle to spread the OBEY message. Someone wearing a t-shirt with an OBEY graphic is like having a mobile message board.
OCSTREET: What everyday methods or routines do you do to help you come up with fresh and creative ideas?
BOTH: We read a lot of magazines, go out to bars, clubs, shows and do a lot of traveling. A lot of ideas come from just people watching.
OCSTREET: In June 2003 Obey launched their womens line and one of my favorite pieces from the womens line is the shorts jumpsuit. It used to be that girls could not find hip-hop/underground/street clothing with a girls perspective/look, by default we would always have to go with the guys line because there was no girls line. In the future, what style or designs can we look forward to in the womens line?
Erin: OBEY has a very military/functional style which I try to include in the womens line. I work with that and try to give it a more feminine touch.
OCSTREET: OBEY currently has flagship stores located in Tokyo, Singapore, and Hong Kong and one opening in New York in 2006, where in New York will it be located? Can we expect one to open in LA or OC?
BOTH: Stores in the US are still on the slate, but are on hold for right now. We are just concentrating on growing with the retailers we already sell in the US.
OCSTREET: Something that your website: www.obeyclothing.com mentions is “everyone has fallen into a category in order to wear a label. OBEY is for everyone to enjoy.” According to California Apparel News, OBEY Clothing is being sold in select Nordstrom stores. Some might say that having your label sold in a department store is considered “selling out”; what are your thoughts, and do you think by having it sold in a huge corporate retail store changes the image and meaning behind the clothing line?
BOTH: We have purposely been very slow in rolling out our product to department stores. But quality chain stores such as Nordstrom's offer us a chance to have our product reach a broader audience.OCSTREET: Also mentioned from the website, “Season after season, we’ve actually progressed into a brand that has some content in it.” What kind of look is Obey going to be presenting for the Summer 05’?
Erin: Our looks for Summer 05’ touch on the seedier side of High Society (golfing, yachting, chilling at the country club) which all represent a laid-back summer look.
OCSTREET: Who do you find challenging in the design world these days? Who's pushing the limits? Whose work do you like?
MIKE: As far as clothing design goes, I really like the simplicity of lines like NOAH out of New York. As for footwear design I'm a big fan of Visvim out of Japan. They do a great job of bridging technical design with very classic and casual shoes. And on the music front I'm feeling Spankrock out of Baltimore. He's got a really wild rhyme style.
Erin: Vivienne Westwood is constantly pushing the limits in the fashion world... and has been my biggest fashion influence. I also like Built by Wendy, Silas and Maria, and Undercover.
OCSTREET: Fun Question! If you could dress up any celebrity who would it be and what would you have them wear?
MIKE: Mr. T. in cut off sweat pants. The cut off sweatpants are a strong look for the summer time.
Erin: Michael Jackson in some western gear (wranglers, boots, and a blanket poncho)
OCSTREET: Where are your favorite places to shop and go out in Orange County?
MIKE: Shoes: Blends (They did it so right and have they best kicks and selection in the OC. Plus the Blends crew are good people.) Clothing: Active (They have a great selection of different brands and different styles that are very affordable and the store is merchandised and laid out very well. Once again the staff there is nothing but good peeps.)
Erin: Carve @ The Lab and Main Street in Huntington Beach.
Awesome! Thanks guys.
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